Author: Skip
Your new Racers Edge Camber Plates will bolt in without modification.
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After jacking up your car and supporting it on jack stands, remove the wheel/tire assembly. The complete strut assembly, spring and upper strut mount can be removed as a unit.
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Unclip the brake line and ABS equipment if so equipped.
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Loosen the two bolts that hold the lower strut assembly to the spindle. The upper bolt is the factory eccentric bolt that is used for camber adjustment. Before fully removing the two bolts, you may want to place a jack under the spindle/brake assembly so it won’t suddenly drop.
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Loosen and remove the four nuts that hold the upper strut mount to the chassis. Remember, after removing these, there will now be nothing holding the strut assembly in the car. Either hold the strut assembly with one hand while removing the top nuts, or get an assistant to help. The complete strut assembly can now be removed from the car.
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Note: Your new Camber/Caster Plates will bolt into the same four holes that were utilized by the stock upper strut mount. Like the stock mount, your new Camber Plates will mount from UNDERNEATH the fender.
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Using a spring compressor, remove the top nut holding the upper strut mount to the strut/spring assembly. Please, be very careful – the spring is under a great deal of tension.
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After disassembling the strut and upper strut mount, reassemble using your new Camber Mounts.
You will notice that a special upper spring perch is included with the plates. This perch is ONLY used if you are converting to a 2.5” ID spring like those supplied with our Adjustable Ride Height Coil Over Kit. If you are using a stock diameter spring, these perches will not be used. You will continue to use the stock upper spring perch.
You will notice that the spherical bearing in the new Camber Plates has a spacer on the top and the bottom of the bearing. Although you MUST use the spacer on the bottom, if the strut rod does not extend far enough through the bearing to allow proper thread engagement, you can remove the upper spacer to allow more thread engagement.
Once installed, to change camber settings, jack up that corner of the car, loosen the four Allen head bolts that hold the spherical bearing portion of the plate and slide the assembly to the desired setting. Tighten the Allen head bolts and lower the car.
Aside from the obvious advantages to using adjustable camber plates, you can now also set a static differential camber setting. Your alignment shop may determine that the driver’s side of the car should get a bit more camber than the other. If so, you now have the ability to set this once, then have it change accordingly with your own trackside adjustments.
Finally, as with any metal bearing, these units may require some preventative maintenance to keep them working well. Depending on conditions and use, lubricate the bushings as needed with a good quality Moly grease.
Good Luck!
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