Description

Tools: Aside from the tools needed to safely remove the strut from the car - hacksaw (or suitable alternative), 3mm (1/8") drill bit, 14mm (9/16") drill bit, metal file. Optional - once the inserts go inside the casing, that distinctive yellow is gone forever. Plasti-Kote T-29 (School Bus Yellow) or Duplicolor DA1663 (School Bus Yellow) are about the closest match you'll find.

The Basics: Preparation of the strut is simply to remove it from the car, and safely remove the spring and upper perch from the strut. You will be drilling a relief hole to allow the shock oil to drain, then mark and cut the top of the strut, then drill the final mounting hole used to secure the new strut. Once completed, you will insert the strut into the casing and torque the lower nut to specification.

Drill relief hole: Using a 3mm (or 1/8") drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the strut bottom. Some compressed air may escape as the hole runs through - not enough to cause alarm. Drain and dispose of the shock oil.

CAUTION: In some cases, the pressure inside the strut may be enough to blow out an excess of oil. When drilling the relief hole, be prepared for this by wearing protective goggles or a complete facemask. Or, if you prefer your skin to be thoroughly moisturized, take your chances.

One customer had this to say: "Oil erupted in cataclysmic fashion from the shock, completely covering me and laying a gigantic blast radius of oil on my garage floor about 3' in diameter."

"Measure twice, cut once!" Make a mistake here and you'll be walking the junkyards looking for another set. The importance of this measurement is that it provides just enough clearance for the mounting bolt to start pulling the insert into the casing while still retaining as much of the casing as possible. A tolerance of ~1mm on either side is perfectly acceptable.

Remove and dispose of the strut internals and any remaining fluid.

Drill the bottom: Using a 14mm (or 9/16") drill bit, use the previous relief hole to center cut the bottom mounting hole. Again, the hole can be slightly larger than 14mm as there will be a large washer used when complete.

NOTE: The 14mm hole is larger than it needs to be using the new lower bolt kit (rounded Allen head). However, I've found this allows for some additional clearance making the lower bolt easier to start. A 1/2" drill bit can be used, but the center must be marked very precisely.

Insert strut: The new Koni strut has locating tabs that will stop the insert from seating all the way in the case. The locating tabs keep the insert secure inside the casing.

Thread screw: If you measured and cut correctly from above, the supplied bolt and washer arrangement should fit through the bottom of the case and lightly thread into the insert. Tightening the bolt will pull the strut into the casing.

NOTE: It may be necessary to slam the strut into the tube slightly to allow the lower bolt to thread in - or, to use the bolt alone to thread the strut and pull it down in. Also, your lower bolt and washer may look different from that pictured here. Finally, it helps to grease the lock washer slightly to prevent it from binding while tightening.

Torque: Tighten the M14 bolts down to 63 ftlbs.

NOTE: Most kits shipped after March 2003 have a new lower bolt and washer (rounded Allen head). Torque for the new Allen bolt is 55 ftlbs.

Not that hard, was it ;-)